Peafowl are easy to raise and develop quite a personality.

Whether you let them free range, on your farm or small acreage, or keep them in pens for breeding purposes. There are a few things to know that will benefit you and your peafowl.

DIFFERENCE IN DIETS

Peafowl orginated from wild free roaming flocks that foraged from day to day finding whatever they could eat.

Their diet would be high in protein one day and low the next. They would eat whatever they could find including, but not limited to bugs, grasshoppers, grasses, snakes, lizards, leaves and other leafy matter. Their diet varied a lot in the wild.

FREE RANGING ON YOUR FARM IS A DIFFERENT STORY ALTOGETHER.

You can offer them a good selection of things to eat somewhat similar to their wild diet.

They love lettuce, just tear a head open and toss it on the ground, before long they will come running for it as soon as they see you with it in your hand.

Fresh grass clippings are good for them also.

Dry dog food is a good source of protein for them. Again, toss it on the ground, and watch them come running. You can train them pretty easy to treats, really.

Peafowl will keep your yard and surrounding area free from insects like bugs, grasshoppers, ticks and all sorts of other crawly critters.

Make sure you have fresh open water for them at all times....especially in the winter as it increases their circulation. A dehydrated peafowl will not be able to keep itself warm. Water is more critical in the winter than in the summer.

Remember, peafowl will lay eggs, anywhere, and I mean anywhere on your farm that they feel is a safe place. So before long you will have little ones running around unless you can find their nest and collect them for artificial incubation.

PEN RAISED BREEDERS HAVE A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT DIET.

They need the same amount of protein everyday for egg production.

During the breeding months, which begins, in our area, about the end of April thru the end of July, your peafowl will need a game bird ration of at least 18 to 19 percent protein. I prefer a pelleted form because there is less waste. We add corn in the winter for heat production.

Your peafowl will require a maintenance formula, up to and after breeding season, of around 12 percent protein.

Remember fresh water everyday, and they still like some fresh greens, such as lettuce or fresh grass clippings.

It is O.K. to spoil them a little.

Peahens in breeding will lay every other day. Peahens will sit on their eggs if allowed to do so. They must have a place to nest where they are not disturbed. Such as a nesting box or old tire filled with straw, and on the ground.

If you are planning on artificial incubation you should collect the eggs every day. Remember to write the pen they came from on each egg. Use a pencil only. If you use a marker the ink can be absorbed into the egg and kill the embryo.

You can store the eggs up to 7 days before placing them in your incubator. I use an egg carton, placing them pointed end down in the carton. Store in a cool place around, 50 or 60 degrees.

WHEN USING STYROFOAM INCUBATERS
The eggs should be incubated for 28-30 days at 99.5 degrees. Use an incubator with an automatic turner and stop turning the eggs during the last 3 days. Watch them when they start pipping the egg, sometimes they do need a little help. Only help them if they seem to be having trouble. Your incubator should have a tray or trays for the water. The chicks need the humidity. You should also candle the eggs after 10 days of incubation to check for fertility. If they are not fertile, remove them. They could spoil and ruin the other eggs.

When you stop turning the eggs during the last 3 days they can be placed in a hatcher, or take the turner out and lay the eggs on the bottom of your incubator, on the wire screen to finish the incubation period. They can and will get tangled in the turner if it is not removed. You can purchase a styrofoam incubator and turner at most hardware or feed stores.

After the eggs have hatched in the incubator, leave them in the incubator for at least 24 hours so they can absorb the yolk sac and dry off. They will be up and running around in no time. From there I move them to a clean glass aquarium, about 10 gallons or more in size, with a 60 watt heat lamp. I use an aquarium because there are no drafts, which can be harmful to the chicks. I use a rubber mat on the bottom to keep them from slipping around.

Baby chicks need a good chick starter, at least 28 percent protein. Sprinkle a little on the mat so they learn how to peck for food. Add a water dish, low and shallow, with some marbles in the dish so they do not drown. Just cover the marbles with water. I leave them in the aquarium about 1 week, then move them to a larger brooder with a 100 watt heat lamp. They stay there about 1 month then decrease the heat lamp to a 60 watt for another month. From there they go outside to a larger brooder house with two 60 watt heat lamps hanging about 1 foot from the floor. I use straw on the floor for added warmth and to keep them busy scratching. At this time I have started using a larger feeder and waterer. After the chicks are 4 months old I switch them to a pelleted form of game bird feed of 18 percent protein,leaving them on this until they are a year old.

You are now on your way to raising peafowl.

We do wish you good luck with your peafowl and hope we have helped you get a good start.

Remember if you have any questions or need any help, feel free to e-mail us.

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